Clothes as a marker of otherness in traditional Kazakh culture


Views: 82 / PDF downloads: 3

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.32523/2616-7255-2024-148-3-135-156

Keywords:

clothes; marker; Otherness; Self – Other; tradition; Kazakh culture

Abstract

The concept of “otherness” is derived from the word “other”, non-identical. The problem of otherness in humanitarian science has attracted the attention of researchers since long ago and has been considered from a variety of perspectives. In the opinion of the authors of the article, the visual expression of otherness is the least developed issue in science, but it is clothing (costume) and the image as a whole that reflects it most vividly and distinctively. The main focus of this article is the reflection of otherness in clothing, viewed through the prism of Kazakh culture. In order to compare and clarify some data, the article draws on materials on the clothing of other Turkic ethnic groups (Kyrgyz, Altai, Uzbek, Karakalpak), as well as Iranians. As it is known, clothing in traditional culture was conceptualized as a receptacle of the soul and the “second” shell of a person. By wearing certain clothes, a person could present his “specialness”, his difference from all others, i.e. there was an expressive demonstration of his “I”, “I am the Other”. The article provides an interpretation of some elements of the costume of steppe nobility, people of creative professions, as well as shamans and other category of people with the status of “otherness”. It is assumed that the meaning of some visual markers of clothing was not only that they showed the society the substance of the Other, but also contain even more profound grounds. In our opinion, most of these attributes (markers) demonstrate the syncretism of the unity of Man and the Cosmos, or rather express the belonging of the wearer to a certain level of the universe. Having considered the visual markers of otherness given in the article on the example of Kazakh culture, we can conclude that the iconography of the other was a well thought out and balanced system, understood and accepted by the community.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

References

Abylkasov G. Zh. Tradicii masterstva Sal-Seri i ego dalekie nachinaniya v okrestnosti Esil’-Kokshe [Sal-Sery’s tradition of craftsmanship and his far-flung endeavours in the neighbourhood of Yesil-Kokshe] // Bulletin of Sh. Ualikhanov Kokshetau State University, 2018. - № 1 (2). – P. 197 – 201. [in Russian]

Akishev A.K. Iskusstvo i mifologiya sakov [Art and mythology of the Saks]. - Alma-Ata: Nauka, 1984.- P.176. [in Russian]

Asemkulov T., Nauryzbaj Z. Sub’ekt (-iv)naya kazahskaya kul’tura [Subject(ive) Kazakh culture]. – Almaty: Otuken.kz, 2022.- 400 p. [in Russian]

Avanesov S.S. Odetyj chelovek (k probleme antropologicheskoj semiotiki vlasti) [Dressed man (to the problem of anthropological semiotics of power)] // Praxema. Problems of visual semiotics, 2016. – № 1 (7). – P. 34-46. [in Russian]

Azi A.E., Azap S., Saduakas N.A. Koshpendі sal-serіlerіnіn halytyk-dіni kozkarastary [Ethnic and religious views of nomadic peoples] // Bulletin of the L. Gumilyov ENU Series: Historical Sciences. Philosophy. Religious studies. – 2022. № 1 (138). – P. 142-154. [in Kazakh]

Bahtin M. M. Literaturno-kriticheskie stat’I [Literary and critical articles]. – M.: Nauka, 1986. – 541 p. [in Russian]

Basilov V.N. Shamanstvo u narodov Srednej Azii i Kazahstana [Shamanism among the peoples of Central Asia and Kazakhstan]. – M.: Nauka,1992. – 328 p. [in Russian]

Baskakov A. N. Narodnyj teatr Horezm [Folk Theatre of Khorezm]. – Tashkent: Fan, 1984. – 128 p. [in Russian]

Dudin S.M. Otchet o poezdkah v Srednyuyu Aziyu v 1900–1902 gg [Report on trips to Central Asia in 1900-1902]. M.: Fond Mardzhani, 2021. – 559 p. [in Russian]

Dzhanibekov U. Kazahskaya nacional’naya odezhda [Kazakh national dress]. –Almaty: Oner, 1996. – 146 p. [in Russian]

Erofeeva I.V. Epistolyarnoe nasledie kazahskoj pravyashchej elity 1675-1821 godov [Epistolary heritage of the Kazakh ruling elite 1675-1821] Collection of historical documents in 2 volumes. – Almaty, AO «ABDI Kompani», 2014. - 696 p. [in Russian]

Gaverdovskij Ya.P. Obozrenie Kirgiz-kajsackoj stepi (chast' 1-ya), ili Dnevnye zapiski v stepi Kirgiz-kajsackoj 1803 i 1804 godov [Review of the Kirghiz-Kaisak steppe (part 1), or Day notes in the Kirghiz-Kaisak steppe in 1803 and 1804] // Istoriya Kazahstana v russkih istochnikah XVI-XX vv [History of Kazakhstan in Russian sources XVI-XX centuries]. – Almaty: Atamura, 2007. Vol V. – P. 157-256. [in Russian]

Golikova T.A. Trikstery tyurkskoj mifologii: Tastarakaj [Tricksters of Turkic mythology: Tastarakai] // Linguo-methodological and cultural problems of teaching foreign languages at higher education institutions. Ufa: BGU, 2010. – Р.55-58. [in Russian]

Goncharova N.S. Formennaya odezhda predstavitelya vlasti kak simvol –predmet prestupleniya i kak simvol – sredstvo soversheniya prestupleniya [Uniform clothing of a representative of authority as a symbol - the subject of the crime and as a symbol - the means of committing a crime] // Vestnik VSU, Law, 2020. – № 2. – P. 269 – 277. [in Russian]

Kaskabasov S. Geroi kazahskoj volshebnoj skazki [Heroes of Kazakh magic fairy tale] // Soviet Turkology, 1970. №3. – Р.109-118. [in Russian]

Kubel E.L. Narodnyj teatr maskarabozov v Karakalpakii (po materialam fotokollekcii A.L. Melkova 1927–1928 gg. v sobranii MAE RAN) [Folk Theatre of Maskarabozes in Karakalpakia (on the materials of the photographic collection of A.L. Melkov 1927-1928 in the collection of the MAE RAS)]. Illustrative Collections of Kunstkamera Vyp. 2. Collection of the MAE, Vol. LXVI. SPb: MAE RAS. 2019, Р. 79-86. [in Russian]

Kukashev R.Sh. K obrazu lebedya v kazahskom shamanstve [To the image of the swan in Kazakh shamanism] // Ethnographic Review, 2002, – № 6. – Р.38-44. [in Russian]

Kondybaj S. Mifologiya predkazahov [Mythology of the Pre-Kazakhs]. Book Three. – Almaty, SaGa, 2008.- 436 p. [in Russian]

Kondybaj S. Kazahskaya mifologiya [Kazakh mythology] Concise Dictionary. –Almaty, Nurly Alem, 2005. – 272 p. [in Russian]

Lotman M.Yu Articles on the semiotics of culture and art. – SPb: Akademicheskij proekt, 2002. – 544 p. [in Russian]

Margulan A. Kazaktyn sal, serіlіk dasturі [Tradition of Kazakh sal, sery] // Margulan A. Shygarmalary [Margulan’s work], Vol. II. – Almaty: Alatau, 2007. – 432 p. [in Kazakh]

Mustafina R.M. Predstavleniya, kul’ty, obryady u kazahov [Kazakh beliefs, cults and rituals]. – Almaty: Kazak university, 1992. – 176 p. [in Russian]

Naumova O.B. Ekstravagantnaya lichnost’ v tradicionnoj kazahskoj kul’ture (k voprosu o vremeni formirovaniya gruppy sal-serі) [Extravagant personality in traditional Kazakh culture (to the question of the time of formation of the Sal-Sery group)] // TSU Bulletin. History, 2020. - № 64. – P. 178-184. [in Russian]

Nauryzbaj Z. Vechnoe nebo kazahov [The eternal sky of the Kazakhs]. – Almaty: SaGa, 2013. – 704 p. [in Russian]

Popova, L.F. Muzhskie vyshitye sharovary v kul’ture narodov Srednej Azii i Kazahstana [Men’s embroidered trousers in the culture of the peoples of Central Asia and Kazakhstan] // Eurasia – Dialogue of Cultures: Proceedings of the Twenty-second St. Petersburg Ethnographic Readings. SPb: Rossijskij etnograficheskij muzej, 2023. – Р.73-80. [in Russian]

Pozdnev P.A. Dervishi v musul’manskom mire [Dervishes in the Muslim world]. Orenburg: Breslina, 1886. – 194 p. [in Russian]

Prokofieva E.D. Shamanskie kostyumy narodov Sibiri [Shaman costumes of the peoples of Siberia] // Religious representations and rites of the peoples of Siberia in the XIX - early XX century. – Leningrad: Nauka, 1971. – Vol. 27. – Р. 5-100. [in Russian]

Rahimova Z. Sufijskaya koncepciya odezhdy v kostyume shejkov i dervishej (po dannym pozdnegeratskoj miniatyury) [Sufi concept of clothing in the costume of sheiks and dervishes (according to the late Herat miniature)] // “San at” Magazine, 2008. – №2. URL: https://sanat.orexca.com/2008-rus/2008-2-2/sufkonc / (access date: 23.01.2024) [in Russian]

Rassudova R.A. K istorii odezhdy sredneaziatskogo duhovenstva [To the history of Central Asian clergy dress] // Monuments of traditional and everyday culture of the peoples of Central Asia, Kazakhstan and the Caucasus. – 1989. – Р. 170-179. [in Russian]

Saikeneva D.K. «Svoj i chuzhoj» v mifopoeticheskom mire tyurkov: inakovost' kak priznak prinadlezhnosti k nizhnemu miru [“One’s own and stranger” in the mythopoetic world of the Turks: otherness as a sign of belonging to the lower world] // Bulletin of the L. Gumilyov ENU Series: Historical Sciences. Philosophy. Religious studies. – 2023. – V.143. № 2. – Р. 74-85. DOI: 10.32523/2616-7255-2023-143-2-74-85. [in Russian]

Shakhanova N. Mir tradicionnoj kul'tury kazahov: etnograficheskie ocherki. [The World of Traditional Culture of Kazakhs: Ethnographic Essays]. – Almaty:1998. [in Russian]

Simakov G.N. Obshchestvennye funkcii kirgizskih narodnyh razvlechenij v konce 19 – nachale 20 v.[ Social Functions of Kyrgyz Folk Entertainments in the late 19 – early 20 centuries. Istoriko-etnograficheskie ocherki [Historical and Ethnographic Essays].– L.: Nauka, 1984. – 229 p. [ in Russian]

Toleubaev, A.T. Kostyum shiliktinskogo «zolotogo cheloveka» v kontekste odezhdy sako-skifskogo mira [The costume of the Shilikta “Golden Man” in the context of the Sako-Scythian dress] // The World of the Greater Altai. – 2016. – №4. – Р. 689 – 710. [in Russian]

Tursunov E.D. Vozniknovenie baksy, akynov, seri i zhyrau [Emergence of baksy, akyns, sery and zhyrau]. - Astana: Foliant, 1999. – 252 p. [in Russian]

Yuzefovich B.O. O byte kirgizov Turgajskoj oblasti [On the life of the Kirghiz of the Turgai region] // Russian Messenger. – 1880. – №4. – Р.799 – 832. [in Russian]

Yacenko S.A. Cvetovye predpochteniya v kostyume drevnih iranoyazychnyh narodov [Colour preferences in the costume of ancient Iranian-speaking peoples]. 2010. URL: https://www.narodko.ru/article/yatsenko/color_iran/iran.htm (access date 23.01.2024). [in Russian]

Zakharova I.V., Khodshayeva R.D. Kazahskaya nacional’naya odezhda XIX – nachala XX v. [Kazakh national clothing XIX - early XX century]. Alma-Ata: 1964. – 157 p. [in Russian]

Downloads

Published

2024-09-08

How to Cite

Shaygozova, Z. ., & Nehviadovich, L. . (2024). Clothes as a marker of otherness in traditional Kazakh culture. Bulletin of L.N. Gumilyov Eurasian National University. Historical Sciences. Philosophy. Religious Studies, 148(3), 135–156. https://doi.org/10.32523/2616-7255-2024-148-3-135-156

Issue

Section

HISTORICAL SCIENCES